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| Our Grand Canyon Voyage 2015
was a success |
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| Our crew of eight |
The eight of us have much to be
thankful for and many folks to thank for helping us along the way. We followed
our hearts and intuition through thick and thin water and disengaged from
everything else for many, many moments. Friends and
family cheered us on for 22 days as we snaked across the map before their eyes
through our Delorme In Reach device:
(filter the map for the dates November 14, 2015 - December 5, 2015)
With this technology, our "followers" could zoom in so close they could see an overview
of the beaches we slept on each night. We were a strong, courageous, loving and loved team
throughout the extreme 280 miles. We rode with style in our three rafts and one
cataraft that remained upright throughout the voyage. The crew was cohesive and
appreciated the strengths and talents of each member. The theme of the trip was
as long as we're together we will succeed. Nate and I outfitted and led the
trip of six John Wesley Powell-fresh sets of eyes.
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| Nate and I relax on "Hox" |
There is endless joy
pursuing our passion for whitewater and in sharing Grand Canyon with friends. Also, to promote and utilize such
important places ensures these places will exist for future generations to experience. As Michelle Baldwin, Lady
Ganga, http://ladygangathemovie.com/, desires to inspire as do
we "to be fearless and wise; to do our own dreams, reach further than we thought
possible, and help more than we imagine we are able".
TRIP ROSTER
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| Nate in his natural habit |
Nate hauled all the gear to outfit this trip across the country from North Creek and back. He was trip organizer and leader, and rowed our 18 ft State-Of-The-Art-Raft
(SOTAR) named "Hox" (see picture below). "Hox", a combination of hog and
ox, was named for it's reliable and steady heavy-duty carrying capacity. Nate arranged and
rearranged food in coolers and dry boxes throughout the trip. He
consolidated and found new spaces to stow trash. He also took the pictures featured in this blog post.
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| "Hox", our 18 ft SOTAR, fully loaded |
Nate began
guiding rivers the week after graduating from college in 1997. What started as
a summer job turned into a favorite hobby, then a career and a way of life.
When not running the rivers of the Adirondacks,
Nate enjoys exploring other great rivers across the country.
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| Pumping the raft up before the sun warms Tanner Camp |
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| Holding "Hox" while briefly stopped at Mile 209 Camp |
I was the lone female, trip organizer and historian, creator of the 22-day menu, shopping coordinator, chef, skipper/riffle rower on "Hox". I started guiding rivers at the
AuSable Chasm in 1998 and have been on the Hudson River every season since. On land, I'm a Speech & Language Pathologist (SLP) for my private practice around the Adirondack Park. My "superpower" is assisting individuals across the lifespan with eating and communicating. What's yours? I'm also the SLP at Long Lake Central School (LLCS), the smallest school district in New York State. I share my expedition experience with students through lessons about National Parks, geology in Grand Canyon, drought in western states, guiding as a profession, and multi-day rafting and camping. 2016 is the centennial year of National Parks and I'm collaborating with LLCS faculty and staff to showcase our public treasures.
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| Brothers Jason (top) and Evan (bottom) swimming in Matkatamiba Canyon, Mile 148 |
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| The crew as seen by Nate with the purple cataraft and it's captains Jason and Evan in the foreground |
Jason was a chef and copilot of our eggplant-purple 18 ft Maravia cataraft. When Jason realized what this craft without a
floor was capable of gliding through, we began hearing him say to Evan "shoot for
the moon". He often tested the limits of the two beefy rocket-shaped raft tubes. I saw the bottom of the tubes more than once while watching him "shoot" through a rapid. Jason is an experienced woodsman which made it odd to see him in the desert, a landscape without trees. 2015 was his third
year guiding with North Creek Rafting. A native
Adirondacker, avid outdoorsman, and self-employed logger, Jason is sure to
teach you things you did not know about the Adirondacks.
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| Nick D or "Dabs" |
Nick D, or "Dabs", trip permit holder and horseshoe champion, tore
up his baby-soft hands doing dishes. I have read "clean dishes equal clean
lines". As copilot of our 16 ft bright red Maravia raft named "Aragorn", Nick
managed to stay in the raft despite taking some spicy lines through major rapids. He
took thousands of photos (many featured in this post) and gathered armfuls of firewood on this trip. Nick fell in love with whitewater on a rafting trip
on the Housatonic river in CT. After organizing several trips for
friends, he became licensed in Maine and then New York. Nick works full time as a Physical
Therapist on Long Island. For nearly a decade he's been guiding a few weekends a year with North Creek Rafting.
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| Evan glowing in the sun |
This was Evan's first experience rowing rapids. He was copilot of our 18-ft purple cataraft and is now determined to row rafts without floors forever. Evan has been guiding the Hudson for two years and works with North Creek Rafting. He completed hiking the 272-mile Long Trail through the state of Vermont a week before this expedition. Evan is useful, enthusiastic and optimistic when approaching any
outdoor activity including back country food preparation and wilderness first aid.
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| Dave tests his new drysuit by diving in near Redwall Cavern |
Dave, manager of tiki torches, firepan and ashes, co-piloted "Aragorn". He did dishes daily which probably helped him
successfully row the rocky and hole-infested right side of Hance Rapid backwards. Dave has been on rivers in the northeast for decades. He's always up for an adventure. His first time on a western river was this river, this trip.
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| Nick C at the oars of "Windwalker" with "Aragorn" in the background |
Nick C was copilot of
"Windwalker", our 16 ft bright red Maravia raft. He was so kind to deal with our crap, literally. He located and set up a scenic spot for the "groover" or toilet at each and every camp. Due to his great strength, he often carried fully loaded kitchen boxes or moved slightly beached rafts. He
also did many dishes which may be how he remained upright in Grand Canyon during his first-ever experience rowing a raft.
Nick guides on the Hudson
River with North Creek
Rafting. He is plainly passionate about mountaineering. He travels the world to climb mountains and lit up around the firepan telling stories of his adventures.
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| Chris gives "Windwalker" some wind while Dave happily empties a bucket |
Chris, copilot of
"Windwalker", was also very good-natured about dealing with our crap. He helped set up our "groover" or toilet at every camp. He was often found in side canyons filtering
water for drinking or cooking or by the firepan managing the Dutch Ovens. He was our time keeper in the
kitchen. Chris's experience on wild water includes engineering large
crafts on the open seas for months on end. He knows about high-siding (diving to the side of a boat that's not going under water) in the swells of the seas and did well navigating the rapids considering this was his first time whitewater rafting.
The Voyage
11/6/2015 All the equipment to outfit 8
rafters began it's journey across the country in our silver van and sleek black
trailer. The New York license plates read "River" as I bubbled it with love
and a swirling of my hand around it in the air. A cool breeze blew the leaves
from the tree that Nate got down on one knee under down the road. The next time we saw each other was in Flagstaff, AZ.
11/11/2015 Today I flew across the country. On the way I
finished reading "Broken Waters Sing" by Gaylord Stavely. "Broken waters
don't sing for everyone ...."
"Running rivers is one of the few remaining ways to
compete against nature rather than society or others. It is a wonderful
challenge and struggle because the river lets you know immediately whether
you've won or lost. In the battles of day to day life, one can't always
recognize wins and losses. But the successful run of each rapid is a clear cut
victory all in itself, and the run of a whole river reiterates all of the
victories along the way" - Gaylord Stavely
11/12/2015 I woke up at the Hotel Monte Vista in Gary
Cooper's "haunted" room. I slipped out the door to peacefully drink chai at the Fire
Creek Coffee Company. As I sat alone comfortably sipping, I reviewed the menu I
created for the next 22 days. I was so happy to be there I could have cried.
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| Built in 1926, the Monte Vista sign can be seen for blocks |
By noon we began our epic 8-hour five-person shop for nourishment
for more than three weeks. It was our first of many challenges to
overcome together with grace.
Eventually that evening I met up with
Katie, a girlfriend from Flagstaff, who has spent many days in Grand Canyon. She encouraged me to say to myself while scouting threatening rapids, "I
did not have this opportunity yesterday. I will not have it tomorrow so I'd
best grab it now". Katie and I also talked of taking time for myself
throughout the voyage.
11/13/2015 (Day 0) Monte Vista Hotel in Flagstaff to Grand Canyon National Park
As we drove to Lee's Ferry, I began to wonder what
animal would speak to me first. It was 3 horses corralled in an expansive barren habitat. According
to psychologist Carl Jung, horses symbolize natural forces mastered by human
beings. Just like we harness a horse to ride it or use its power, we can
harness our own energy or nature’s to serve us and bring us further. We were about to harness the Colorado River's power for 280 miles. It reminded me of a small
wooden Ganesh I carry in my lifejacket. Ganesh, in Hinduism, symbolizes one's ability to
overcome obstacles in life and pursue one's goals no matter what may stand in one's
way.
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| On our way to Lee's Ferry |
We cruised into Lee's Ferry four by four. With four in our van towing a trailer, and four in Evan's Subaru
sedan, all eight of us were surrounded by
mounds of supplies.
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| As I organized the food into water-proof Pelican cases, Evan uttered "we're going to eat like kings and a queen" |
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| The Richards putting the cataraft frame together |
The rigging of the crafts
was smooth, between Nate's organized custom-built shelves and our eager crew on
Friday the 13th. We spent about five hours packing and putting the rafts
together. We headed up to dinner at the recently rebuilt Marble Canyon Lodge
restaurant. There were new photos on the wall of rafting the Colorado River. The photos were donated after a fire destroyed the
place in 2013. Our meal was hearty and delicious. The boys went back down to
finish rigging the rafts as much as they could for departure tomorrow. Nate
told me to relax in our warm, cozy room at the lodge as the boys worked in the
dark down by the river.
11/14/2015 ( Day 1) Lee's Ferry Mile 1 to Badger Rapid Camp Mile 8.5
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I slept like a baby last
night. When I stepped outside this morning into the crisp desert air, the
orange walls of my new house were glowing (see below). I visited the native's shop and
purchased some local handmade gifts for friends and family. I also got a few
children's books about animals who live in Grand Canyon. Eventually I ordered a breakfast sandwich for
Nate and picked up a fire blanket. I
conversed with a native who's worked at the lodge for more than 20 years. She
was here when the fire began and was out of work for almost two years. She
asked me about the fire blanket I held tucked under my arm. I explained that
it's one of several required pieces of equipment by the National Park and how we adhere to "minimum impact" living to reduce the damaging effects of human travel in the park. I
described how we'll use the fire blanket, a kitchen floor and a groover to
keep the beaches pristine. She asked if I'm the only woman on the river trip.
Affirmative. She said she served the guys breakfast earlier and noticed and told me I'd
need to lead the men. They needed me. I agreed. As I walked a way she
said, "giddy up", the sounds used to get a horse moving or going
faster. I felt blessed to have this female interaction.
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| The glowing red walls outside the Marble Canyon Lodge |
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| A sunflower still in bloom outside the Marble Canyon Lodge |
Soon we made our way, with
all our belongings not yet stowed in rafts or stashed away in the trailer, to
the put-in for our ranger orientation with Peggy. The boys saw a rabbit out the
van windows on the ride. Peggy seemed to recognize Nate and I from 2013 and again
provided the details of canyon living. As she spoke, a heron watched from
dozens of yards away across the river. The sun glistened through the metamorphosizing leaves of a Quaking Aspen tree. There were flowers in
bloom around the put in - yellow, orange and purple.
We orchestrated a group picture.
Nick, aka Dabs, gave his first daily sermon, consisting of, "Okay crew, Day _____ , let's have fun and be safe" before
we got on the water. We launched. It was a calm,
warm float with nearly a hundred ducks flying over head as well as a heron
following. The heron took flight as we approached and then waited for us to
catch up. We cruised under the Navajo Bridges and on to scout Badger Rapid. 6/8 crew
members got their first taste of river running in Grand Canyon. We camped at Badger Camp at the foot of the
rapid on river-right. Driftwood was in abundance. We worked like ants to create
our first home together.
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| Heron |
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| Heron takes flight |
Jason, Evan and I made
Greg's Stir Fry for dinner, a medley of 9 fresh vegetables in teriyaki sauce
and sesame oil. We had the perfect amount of food and lounged satisfied around
the firepan. I presented the crew with
the ingredients to make Adirondack Life's Strawberry Nilla S'mores. Folks joked
about the ingredients but were surprisingly pleased by the mix of flavors. I
turned in rather early to a nest created by Nate and an array of new Thermarest
sleepware. It felt spectacular to be back on Paco Pads on the beach. The nest was
so toasty that despite two trips to the river in the night, my body temperature
never lowered.
11/15/2015 ( Day 2) Badger Camp (Mile 8.1) to Upper North Canyon Camp (Mile 20.7)
It was a mild morning. I
saw a tiny bird by my drysuit, it may have been a Say's Phoebe. We packed up
camp and moved down river with a heron or two. We stopped in an hour or so to
scout Soap Creek Rapid. Ranger Peggy warned us yesterday that the rapid had changed so we
decided to take a peak before running it. Soap Creek Camp was a sunny scout
and a friendly camp and rapid. We made
our way to House Rock Rapid next and scouted on river left. 6/8 crew members got
their first view of how tumultuous the rapids can be here. The rapid looked
difficult to navigate with the need to punch across it stern first to avoid a
huge gaping hydraulic at the foot of the rapid on river left. Nate rowed us backwards
smoothly through. It seemed like a divine force pivoted our raft away from the
enormous raft-eating hydraulic. Jason and Evan had the spiciest line. I saw the
bottom of their cat tube. We hooted and hollered as Dave rowed the last raft through
smoothly. Three miles to camp and we celebrated our "victory" over
House Rock.
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| The rigs parked at Upper North Canyon |
We got to our camp at Upper North Canyon Camp with plenty of direct sunlight to warm us as we made a tasty dinner of falafel with roasted and
fresh rainbow-colored veggies. As I sat
down to eat, the winds howled through my partially-staked tent and sent it
flying through the air into some "Tammies". Tammy is the nickname for
the invasive Tamarisk shrub-tree. Ranger Peggy actually told us a bug that destroys
this annoying bush has arrived here and will eventually eliminate them. Tammies suck. They suck up tons of water from the ground,
destroying the native plants around them. After the tent took flight, we had to
batten down the hatches. As the sun set we sat around the firepan listening to righteous
tunes and river tales. I'd been wearing the contacts that I planned to wear for the entire
trip non-stop, not because I didn't have back-up pairs but because I didn't want to have
to put my sandy fingers in my eyes to change them. The contacts I wore were a
type that can be worn for more than three weeks without taking them out. As the
wind picked up ashes and sand into my eyes, I sought the shelter of our nest. As I slept,
Nate's cackle echoed adjacent to the firepan and my cozy bed.
11/16/2015 (Day 3) Upper North Canyon Camp Layover Day (Mile 20.7) and Evan's Birthday
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| Evan and Jason |
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| Making Vegetable Skillet Hash |
I woke up this morning and
practically dove out of my nest to begin cooking. I stopped myself in order to
fulfill my promise to care for my body, mind and spirit while I'm here. I
followed the series in Sleeping Bag Yoga thinking by the end of the trip I'll
know it by heart again. I emerged from the cocoon of our tent to begin
breakfast with Jason. We made Vegetable Skillet Hash with Eggs Scrambled. After
I ate, I noticed the sun was beaming in North Canyon and I was drawn that way like a lizard. Looking downstream greenish water
glistened in the sun by lower North Canyon camp. I walked that way and to the river's edge. I stretched and
imagined powerful women in my life as I
enjoyed my solitude and peace. Enlightened, I walked back to camp and watched
another crew (of six rafts) cruise by and down North Canyon Rapid. I wrote
postcards, this blog post and read " We Swam the Grand Canyon" by Bill Beers. The wind kicked up again this
afternoon while I was there manning (or womanning) camp alone. I dashed around
securing items that the wind would blow away. The temperature dropped too.
After I secured camp I crawled into my nest, curled up and read. The rest of
the crew emerged from their hikes up North Canyon or naps in sleeping bags and began barricading their tents with shovels
full of sand and strategically placed rocks. One tent was moved to a solid
surface so less sand would blow in during the night.
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| Flowers and cactus by North Canyon |
At dusk we made a plan to
make a birthday dinner and dessert for Evan. As the winds picked up again, we simplified dinner to be canned
soup and grilled cheese. For me, this meant toast with earth balance and nutritional
yeast. I devoured Patagonia's Garden Veggie Tsampa Soup and then gave up on being outside.
The wind was blowing sand sideways into my eyes. Some folks waited for the firepan
to die and followed suit to bed. They secured the campsite and it's contents
from wind. I felt comfortable in our hearty four-season tent but thought of the
rest of the crew in tents with mesh walls covered by rumbling tent flies and what guide Kate Thompson said about wind in Grand Canyon, "... when the wind blows here, it blows
hard."
11/17/2015 (Day 4) Upper North Canyon Camp (Mile 20.7) to Lower Buck Farm (Mile 41.2)
We rafted the
"Roaring 20s" today. The consecutive, significant rapids were a blur
EXCEPT Georgie's Rapid (Mile 24).
Georgie's whopping lateral wave rocked us. It was like running into a wall that was moving
towards us. The back of the raft where I
was sitting, hanging on tight, got catapulted into the air. I got launched into
Nate who was rowing and then landed on my left ear. It shook me up and my ear
burned for a while. The river smoothed out and we floated by Vasey's Paradise and on to Redwall Cavern. We stopped at Redwall Cavern and had lunch
on the beach where the sun could just reach us outside the mammoth cave. We
decided to bank some miles and pushed past Nautoloid Camp all the way to Lower Buck
Farm Camp.
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| Posing outside Redwall Cavern |
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| Captain takes a rest |
Lower Buck Farm was a great
camp. We spread out our tents among the vast beach with numerous tent
sites carved into brush. Nate and I set up our nest behind the kitchen. Jason and
I made Sesame Noodle Salad (from the Middle Fork Magic cookbook compiled by
Gayle Selisch) and Jason grilled steaks over the firepan. As the stars filled
the sky, we laughed hysterically making up details of Evan wearing a buckskin,
living in a canyon cave, surviving off rafter's food and supplies. I hit the
hay and the boys who were still awake took a moonlit walk up Buck Farm Canyon.
11/18/2015 (Day 5) Lower Buck Farm Camp (Mile 41.2) to Main Nankoweep Camp (Mile 53.4)
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| Hiking in Buck Farm Canyon |
Nate and I walked up Buck Canyon before we got on the newly brownish-red colored river today. Evan
and Jason bathed in the river before we launched. Somehow we missed
checking out Burt Loper's old boat this morning right by Buck Farm Camp. It was
a peaceful day on the water with no rapids to splash me. I rowed a bunch and
wore my two-piece drysuit for ease relieving myself. You see, whenever I
relieved myself in river garb thus far, Nate had to unzip the drop bottom on my
new drysuit. The spiffy new one-piece drysuit made the threat of swimming
and cold weather along the way less intimidating. It also made relieving
myself an intimate experience for Nate and I as he has to unzip the super
durable drop-zipper each time. This was the only day I did not wear the drysuit
and that I did not need Nate to unzip my relief zipper. A couple of Monarch
Butterflies fluttered around our raft as we floated today. We made it to the
Main Nankoweep Camp early. Most folks hiked to the granaries and beyond while I gladly created two Vegetable Shepard's Pies in two Dutch ovens. The boys fired up coals in the charcoal chimney to surround the heavy cast iron pots and lids. For dessert we baked
German Chocolate Brownies in a Dutch oven. Our nest was tucked away, it may
have been considered Upper Nankoweep Camp.
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| Our kitchen at Main Nankoweep Camp |
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| The Dutch ovens double stacked in front of me contain two Ultimate Vegetable Shepard's Pies |
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| Shepard's Pies divided into quarters for consumption |
|
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| Single Dutch oven contains German Chocolate Brownies |
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| Spacious and private tent site, Nankoweep |
11/20/2015 (Day 6) Main Nankoweep Camp (Mile 53.4) to Tanner Camp (Mile 68.7)
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| Walking along the Little Colorado River |
We got on the water early
today. It was about 9:30. By now the crew was adept at breaking down camp and stowing it on
our four crafts. We ran through a few small rapids and a riffle with a hole that
surfed "Hox" briefly. Nate decided after that, no more testing Hox's
limits.
We stopped at the Little Colorado (picture above). It was chocolate milk-colored. We
met three friendly hikers from three different places around the US. While staring at the canyon walls surrounding the
confluence, I could see what a tragedy it'd be if the confluence was
exploited by a tram cable and cars. It doesn't make sense to develop a land so
dry, delicate, and sacred.
The following are links to websites with more information about current threats to Grand Canyon and how we can help protect it:
Back on the Colorado River, shortly after the Little Colorado River poured in on river left, we noticed the sacred
Hopi salt mines on river left. Salt coated the steep canyon wall of Tapeats Sandstone. I
thought of how the Havasupai made the trek from Havasu Canyon to the Little Colorado River to trade for it. The Desert View Watchtower on the south rim
hovered above us for a while. I wondered if anyone was watching us and thought about the pre-dam days when friends and family watched from the tower, such as Norm Nevills'
"followers" in the 1930s and 1940s.
We got to camp early and busted out solar panels and lunch in the sun. We grilled up veggie burgers over the firepan and made Pasta Salad with Balsamic Vinaigrette and Garlic with Sun-Dried Tomatoes. Tanner Camp gets direct sunlight from about 9 am to 3 pm this time of year. We soaked up every bit of the sun before it disappeared behind the canyon walls. Nate was busy mapping out the next few days as small tan lizards scurried around the firepan.
11/20/2015 (Day 7) Tanner Camp Layover Day (Mile 68.7)
We woke up to a frosty Tanner Camp. Our gear was cold and moistened with crystallized dew. We knew from looking at our sun chart that this camp gets direct sun light for many hours. Anticipating the dark days ahead in the depths of the Upper Granite Gorge, we decided to stay for the day. We made a hearty breakfast of steak grilled over the firepan, eggs, and Spicy Sweet Potato Hash. We hovered to keep warm around the steaks sizzling on the firepan.
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| Our tent site at Tanner Camp |
As soon as the sun touched camp, everything warmed. I put on shorts and bathed in the river. I washed my face inspired by Nate's
extended bath in knee-deep 40 degree water. Nick C washed red sand off
his rig with buckets of water. Dave and Jason tossed horseshoes. Evan
tried to open the breakfast box and broke the latches. Nate had the
tools to fix it, of course. Nate and I did a food inventory and consolidated boxes of food and coolers. We revised the menu based on what we've eaten thus far and have left to eat. I wanted to prep a cake to bake but had a feeling bees would swarm me if I did.
I pawed through my personal gear and was impressed by how minimally I packed. The mint green merino wool Patagonia hoody that I wore for the first week was the bomb. I basked in the sun, staring across the river where somewhere the Beamer Trail joins the Tanner Trail. I bet the Havasupai traveled those paths to the Little Colorado River. Not far behind where I lay lizard-style in the sun are petroglyphs. I imagined this sand bar was used to grow crops as it's so wide with maximum sun exposure. I turned my back on the sun because I could feel my face burning.
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| Purple wash behind Tanner Camp |
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| Purple wash behind Tanner Camp |
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| Petroglyphs behind Tanner Camp |
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| Petroglyphs |
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| Petroglyphs |
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| Desert Poppy |
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| Lizard |
As the sun began to exit camp, Nate and I hiked to the petroglyphs. They were strewn on tan boulders in the purple-colored Dox Formation. There were men in warrior poses and swirls covering curved parts of the boulders. A little further climb and we reached a plateau that we followed to ancient rock walls sprinkled with pottery shards. One shard was only visible through an opening between the rocks in the wall. The walls were only a few feet high. We sat perched on the edge of the plateau with our feet dangling over the Colorado River. On the hike back to camp, we crossed paths with a group who guide in Switzerland together. They were camped upstream from us.
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| Nate and I hiking behind Tanner Camp |
We couldn't find our baking soda for the cake so I sent Nick C and Chris to the camp next to us to see if they had any. They didn't and as it turned out it didn't matter. I used the Dutch ovens to make Pumpkin Cake with Chocolate Chips and Cinnamon Icing that blew folks away and to cook "the best turkey" Nate had ever eaten. Nate seasoned the bird with onion and herbs. Tanner Camp was heaven. We had such a peaceful stay.
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| Writing this blog post |
11/20/2015 (Day 8) Tanner Camp (Mile 68.7 ) to Lower Cremation
Camp (Mile 87.7)
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| Minutes before take-off I look timid up front |
It was a big day on the water.
Beyond Tanner (Mile 68.7), I rode the bull or way up front. After the thumping I took in
Georgie's Rapid, I decided I needed to lead the trip, literally, with my face.
I got slapped hard all day with waves to my chin. One wave made it's way into
the neck gasket of my drysuit and dripped down the front of my shirt.
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| Scouting Hance Rapid |
We ran Hance Rapid
(77.1), a class 8 today. Dave and Dabs ran the spiciest line. They went river
right backwards through some huge holes but somehow avoided jagged
boulders. There were enormous waves and
holes in Sockdolager Rapid (79.1) and Grapevine Rapid (82.1). Nate was so
smooth on the oars, I was astounded. The folks running directly behind him were
fortunate to follow his lines.
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| Scouting again |
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| Cold |
By the
time we got to Cremation, I was chilly. I quickly walked around the camp site to warm myself, laboriously peeled off my clothes and happily situated my scene at Lower
Cremation Camp. I fired up the stove and concocted Indian-Spiced Lentil Soup
over Basmati Rice. We topped it off with Adirondack Life's Peanut Butter Cup
S'mores toasted over the firepan. We all turned in early, tired from the nearly
20 miles sprinkled with heavy whitewater. Our nest was cozy but Nate had
nightmares.
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| Making Indian-Spiced Lentil Soup |
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| Relaxing around the firepan |
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| Our groover site for the night was worth noting |
11/21/2015 (Day 9) Lower Cremation Camp (Mile 87.7) to Upper
Crystal Camp (Mile 98.7)
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| Mules crossing |
After a hearty breakfast of blueberry
pancakes, we got on the water at about 10 am. We ferried across the river and down a bit to Phantom Ranch. As we
approached the boat beach, mules were coaxed into crossing the river on a
bridge above us.
The usual trail to the lodge was under construction so we took
a detour close by the campsites for hikers and a wall that read, "No
stopping, rocks falling". At the canteen, I stamped my pre-written
postcards "delivered by mule" and quickly wrote a few on the fly. We slurped lemonades
and bought souvenirs. I went to the ladies room awkwardly in my hooded drysuit.
A knock on the door startled me while I changed my contacts for the first time
in 8 days. I dropped my hand mirror on the floor and it cracked. The contacts
weren't in right at first. I hoped they were by the time I exited the room. We
took a group photo in front of the canteen. It was sunny, warm and friendly
around Phantom Ranch.We checked the weather
forecast - clear until the last day shown on the forecast. A cold front with precipitation was predicted. We made our way back
to the river and shoved off. Soon to be in the shade and in the deepest,
darkest portion of the trip. Hikers ran after us to capture us with their
cameras as we drifted into the depths.
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| Scouting Hermit Rapid |
Horn Rapid came quickly
and we pulled over prematurely to scout. We had to get back in our rafts and
move closer to the deep roar of Horn in order to scout it. We all got
tousled around, some more than others. On to Granite Rapid which while scouting
we saw a monstrous scat pile. It might have been the excrement of a mountain
lion. Granite was a fast, rocket ride. While stopped to scout Hermit Rapid, we
saw two girls out for a multi-day hike from the South Rim. I saw them first and
was thrilled to converse with females, hardcore females, females excited to see
me and hear my story. They asked the name of our rafting company. As I led the
way breathlessly through the first wave, the girls watched and cheered from a
boulder on shore. They snapped photos. We hopped off the wave train as to not
lead the crew where we've been before. Turns out we could have blasted the
fifth + waves. Nate was disappointed to miss them. By the time we made it to
Crystal Rapid, it was beyond 3:30 and the water was at peak level. We decided to make camp at Upper
Crystal Camp though we felt the rapid may be easier at higher water with more
rocks covered. With a thump, I fell on the ground trying to strip out of my
drysuit.
 |
| The throne at Upper Crystal Camp |
Crystal's thunderous roar powered our camp through the night.
At Mile 98.7, just like at the human temperature 98.6, we felt alive. The
groover spot was quite scenic after one ascends the built-in stone steps and winds
around the cacti. It was sure to be a dangerous trek in the dark. We baked
scrumptious Sweet Potato and Black Bean Enchiladas in the Dutch ovens. There were many mice
around camp. One ran over Nate's feet as he sat by the firepan. Across the
river in the moonlight, a few rocks glistened on the canyon wall like lights.
11/23/2015 (Day 10) Crystal Rapid (Mile 98.7) to Lower Bass
Camp (Mile 109)
We awoke to the chocolate
milk river flowing by camp. Some folks scouted the rapid immediately upon arousal.
Those who saw it, reported the run looked easier with the water level down. At the top of the rapid there
weren't too many rocks to avoid in order to keep the raft on the right side of the river. On the left side of the river, rough holes spit up crowns of water and were sure to send us into uncharted waters. We ate a quick breakfast and shoved ourselves into Crystal Rapid, our first class 9 rapid. Nate led the crew smoothly through as he did every day thus far. Rocks were avoided, waves slapped my chin and my eyes slammed shut to contain my
contacts. Now and again butterflies flitted by as we rowed through the rapids
named after gems (Agate, Sapphire, Turquoise, Emerald, and Ruby) and rock walls glowing in the sun. The weather was
spectacular. We gulped fruit cups and made peanut butter and jelly sandwiches
before pulling into Bass Camp. After setting up my scene and relaxing a bit, I
made Chickpea Vindaloo for lunch and eventually Greg's Stir Fry for dinner as
the nearly full moon appeared over the canyon wall. It was so bright and open,
I didn't need a headlamp. The boys threw horseshoes. Dabs and Nate ruled the
games. I practiced throwing a bit but never joined a game. As usual I was in
bed before Nate. I got up in the night to use the river and I heard him and the
Richards cackling on our raft.
 |
| Horseshoe champs |
11/24/2015 (Day 11) Lower Bass Camp Layover Day (Mile 109)
 |
| View of Vishnu Schist from our tent |
 |
| Chris reading in his hammock |
We woke up leisurely and
made Maple Pecan French Toast to begin the day's feasting. We decided today
would be our Thanksgiving as we anticipated poor weather from the report we
read at Phantom Ranch. Nate erected "The House", our floor-less group shelter. A dragonfly flew by as "The House" took shape.
 |
| "The House" |
Nate helped wash my hair for the first and only time of the trip. I made
Waldorf Wraps for lunch. I realized I'd seen more Monarchs down here already
than I saw all summer long in North Creek.
 |
| We have a foot-operated hand wash station on the groover path with reflectors to find your way at night, shown above, as well as a sink station outside the kitchen |
At our tent site, it
looked like a small creek washed through leaving a variety of small stones and
gravel. I stretched on my Paco Pad in the sun next to the mini-wash. It was the
perfect layover day with warm temperatures and peace. I stewed Gingery
Butternut Squash Soup and prepped the Dutch ovens for a feast by filling one
with a Shepard's Pie and one with a turkey and fixings.
 |
| Lizard |
 |
| Evan and Nate hiking behind Lower Bass Camp |
 |
| Our campsite as seen from above |
Nate and Evan walked up
behind camp and eventually walked down river to wrangle firewood. My tent called my
name after all the cooking but the bright, warm night kept me up. Tomorrow the
moon would be full. The moon light reflecting off the swirling current by camp
looked fake, like some other world where rivers flow chocolate milk and it's
bright enough to see outside all night. It was so mild. The clouds acted like a
giant blanket covering camp, keeping the warmth in. I can't say enough about my
affinity for this place.
11/25/2015 (Day 12 and Full Moon) Lower Bass Camp (Mile 109) to
Galloway Camp (Mile 132.2)
We wistfully waved goodbye
to Lower Bass Camp at about 10 am. A heron followed along. We ran a few rapids and the wind picked up somewhere along the way.
It was an ominous morning with dark clouds, light clouds and sun mixed in
between. Nate spotted the pull-in for Elves Chasm and the crew followed us in.
The wind was whipping so hard Nate and I were wearing sunglasses to keep it and
sand out of our eyes. We hiked up Elves Chasm until we hit the calm pool and
trickling waterfall. In the chasm the wind ceased to blow. We saw a few hikers making their way to the river from the rim. When we
got back on the river, the wind blew at our faces and backs for miles. At one
point the wind stopped us dead in the river's current. We were whipped
from the wind.
 |
| Elves Chasm |
We began scouting for
camps and wood. We stopped at Mile 120 Camp for wood. The camp was a nice one
with a variety of levels for activities including horseshoes. We floated by Blacktail Canyon and contemplated stopping for a quick hike but pressed on to make
miles and camp. We were tentatively headed for Fossil Camp but when it came
into view, we noted the crew we met behind Tanner Camp was camped there.
The
wind eased up a bit and we stopped to gather more wood. The crew caught up and we let those within an earshot know our new plan. Our next camp with shelter from elements was
Randy's Rock Camp. We hoped to score this camp for the night under threatening
skies as up ahead the sky was dark and sinister-looking. The crew and their rafts
caught the current ahead of us. We
thought it was dicey to take the lead without knowing the river and the crew
cruised by the camp at Randy's Rock. It was a large flat beach with the
shelter of a Tapeats Sandstone overhang. Nate and I pulled over but the crew was gone. We shoved into the current, passed everyone as they were eddied out downstream and insisted they let us lead.
It was another five miles to another camp that was hopefully empty. The next camp was at least an hour away without the time needed to scout Spector Rapid and Bedrock Rapid. We hoped
the camp above Dubendorff Rapid, Galloway Camp, would be free so we wouldn't
have to run Dubie near dark. We rowed our way to
Spector Rapid and quickly scouted. We rowed our way to Bedrock Rapid and
pulled over to scout. Nate walked through the Doll's House and I stayed with
the raft. Thankfully, we all ran right
past Bedrock rock. Ranger Peggy did tell us the move one needs to make to go
right is easier now but the consequences if you go left are greater.
 |
| A view from Galloway Canyon, scouting Dubendorff Rapid |
As
Galloway Camp became apparent and known to be empty, it began to sprinkle. We hit shore onto a short awkward beach and tied to a Tammy. I
bet so many rafters have tied to that Tammy. The current was cruising hastily under
the raft tied to the Tammy. We scouted the camp for living purposes and then
the rapid. We decided to stay and each set up our tent for an early night. It
was a long night in the tent, first up by the map and itinerary modifying it
and then sleeping. I worried about the raft most the night. Eventually I
walked to the river by the full moon light and found four mice in the dirty
water of our kitchen sink station. I began to ponder why there were so many
mice here and Upper Crystal Camp and thought maybe it's for "scrutinizing"
the rapids. The message of mouse "is to see what is right before our eyes
and take action accordingly". While I was up in the full moon light, I
checked on Hox and noted Nate had tied the raft to a second, back-up Tammy. I
slept better after I saw the reinforcement. I placed a piece of paper on a
boulder by our tent to gather the full moon light all night.
 |
| Our tent site at Galloway Camp |
11/26/2015 (Day 13 and Thanksgiving Day) Galloway Camp (Mile
132.2) to Olo Camp (146.1)
I woke up and warmed
myself for the 13th day with Spicy Hot Chocolate. I reminded the crew to stay
behind Nate as we travel on the river. Safety was our priority and we made it
safely through Dubie. We bypassed Race Track Camp and a much diminished camp at
Lower Tapeats. We let the crew know and together decided to
forego the killer hike to Thunder River. I saw five Desert Bighorn sheep sparring on a beach near Owls Eyes
Camp.
 |
| Owl Eyes Camp (Mile 135.1) was named for these two depressions in Coconino Sandstone |
We spotted Christmas Tree Cave and scurried up the canyon wall into the
giant cavity with stalactites and stalagmites. It smelled like bat guano. We shimmied
back down to the rafts and eventually floated by Deer Creek Falls.
 |
| Deer Creek Falls |
 |
| Stalactites and stalagmites in Christmas Tree cave on Thanksgiving Day |
 |
| Looking out Christmas Tree Cave |
When we floated by Football Field Camp, I flashed
back to December 2002 when I slept in a tight crevice all night under the soaring canyon wall, tent-less, and alone. Fishtail Rapid contained a large wave/hole
worth avoiding. Keyhole Camp shone with a splinter of sunlight. Kanab Rapid had such
a long wave train, it was laughable.
 |
| Olo Canyon |
 |
| Olo Canyon |
We found Olo Camp beside a
huge eddy on river left. With my bag and box, I ventured to find a spot to change
and made my way up Olo Canyon. Within a short distance, I was upon a crystal
clear pool of water with a cascading 20 foot waterfall landing in it. I led
Nate to the waterfall and pool and we decided to set up our tent on the a knoll
next to it. I wanted to live in this paradise forever. There were birds flitting
around and chirping. The sound of the waterfall hitting the pool was
tranquilizing. Nate set up the water filtering system on a ledge under the waterfall. The filtered water from this waterfall tasted superior to the sandy Colorado River water settled with alum. I sat by the pool on my
Paco Pad writing and reflecting. I chased the last rays of sunlight under the
ledge below the waterfall. We tried to call out from the sat phone to wish
family a happy thanksgiving but could not get a signal. I imagined folks
understood. Nick C stumbled upon paradise and joked that if we hadn't missed Randy's
Rock Camp, we would not be here. I realized that myself and agreed with him. Eventually
dusk set in and I made my way back through the "suburbs" (the four other
tents) and to the "city" (kitchen, firepan and basically groover - it
was a tight site) to make falafel with rainbow-colored roasted and fresh
veggies. The crew was jolly as heck, buzzing on the surroundings.
 |
| Nate playing around with our camera and the moonlight |
 |
| The moon seen through Olo Canyon |
The moon shone through Olo Canyon first. Eventually we all gathered by the calm pool
in Olo Canyon to marvel in it's clarity. Our tent site was protected from wind. The water sounds through the night were disorientating.
The river raged in the riffle below and the waterfall poured just above.
The river ate away several feet of the "city" when the water reached
it's peak. It receded a couple feet from where I chopped a mountain of veggies for
dinner. The river also covered the mouth of where Olo Creek gently flows into
it. We used the buddy system to visit the river in the night.
11/27/2015 (Day 14) Olo Camp (Mile 146.1) to Upper Ledges
Camp (151.9)
 |
| Heron |
I emerged from stretches and the comfort of my cocoon to wander the wash, admire the falls and
whisper my daily intentions. I stretched as I stood there speaking to the
falls. A beaver gnawed the trunk of the one lone Quaking Aspen tree in this
wash. Beaver reminded me that "trusting is okay but caution is necessary". We did
have to leave Olo Canyon today so I made my way to the "city" to begin making "Spotted
Rooster" for breakfast. The Spotted Rooster got it's multi-colored or speckled
appearance from cooking rice together with black beans and red peppers.
I concocted Mango Salsa to go with it.
We shoved off just in
front of the guides from Switzerland. A couple miles downriver, we located Makatamiba Canyon and made the tight eddy raft by raft. The other group poured
themselves into the small eddy behind us. It took some time to secure our four
rafts that were all strapped together. We had to use a metal tool to fasten
them between a crack in the limestone above and pound our over-sized sand stake
as far down in mouth of Matkatamiba Canyon as we could. The eight of us hiked into the side canyon together,
shimmying our way through the narrow and wet slot. The water was clear
and cold and at times I was swimming in it. The drysuit provided extra buoyancy
and it felt ridiculous to float/walk through water. We hiked for about an hour total
and then gingerly unleashed the rafts from the side canyon and one another. We
waved goodbye to the non-hikers, part the crew from Switzerland, still eddied out there.
 |
| Surrounded by Muav Limestone in Matkatamiba |
In two miles we were
scouting Upset Rapid. It was a doozey. After a thorough look over we headed
back to our rafts as the crew from Switzerland floated through the "lake" before
the rapid without scouting. We saw them run the spicy left line we intended to
run. One of their rafts was surfed in the large hole at the
bottom, near the center but closer to the right side of the rapid. We hit the
meaty wave at the top on river left as planned. It was a big hit but set us up to sail
through the rest of the rapid, avoiding the crashing crater in the river. Chris was knocked from his rowing seat in
Windwalker. He fell in the river for a few seconds but pulled himself back into
rowing position as they passed the crater. In our crew, two out of four rafts
hit the crashing crater. Evan fell from his seat,
high-siding in it. Dabs and Dave whisked through it nearly sideways.
 |
| This picture makes Upset Rapid look tame |
 |
| Looking down on our campsite at Upper Ledge Camp |
We spied Upper Ledges Camp
and the crew from Switzerland camped at Ledges. We pronounced Upper Ledges camp for the
night and set up the kitchen, firepan, groover and most of the tents on the ledge
of Muav Limestone. It was dusk and began to rain. The boys turned the left-over Spotted Rooster
into dinner. It was a dank night on the ledge in our tent. I tried to get
comfortable as I worked on this blog post. It didn't feel nest-like without the
warm, soft sand below us. The rain didn't last long, maybe an hour. As I
attempted to cozy up to the limestone ledge, the river whipped by me less than
ten feet away. The river was about three feet lower than where I was laying. I
heard the boys smashing cans really late. Apparently they were crammed in "the
house" knee to knee playing Rummy until the last cat was hung. Nate won several games in a row, stumping the crew.
11/28/2015 (Day 15) Upper Ledges Camp (151.9) to Below Tuck
Up Camp (165.3)
Today we woke up on the
edge of a ledge. We could see the crew from Switzerland downriver at Ledges. They looked
like a colony of bees working together. We leisurely packed up camp as I
informed the crew of the options for the day/days. The folks at Ledges were
going to definitely hike up Havasu Canyon. If we were to hike Havasu too, we were most likely going to miss our
intended layover day spot at Tuck Up. Since layover days were such a luxury, we
opted to bee-line to Tuck Up Canyon. I pre-made maple, peanut butter
granola wraps for a quick breakfast and lunch on the raft. The crew
from Switzerland pulled out just ahead of us, still dressing and eating and strapping down gear.
We followed them to Havasu Canyon and when they stopped, we freely floated ahead.
It was about 15 miles to Tuck Up Canyon. I rowed a few
riffles in Hox. The only way to get better was to work through my frustration with
the effort involved in rowing eddies, waves and whirlpools. Nate said rowing
here is a challenge for him too. He was so suave, it looked easy.
We saw
a Desert Bighorn Sheep on river left.
 |
| Desert Bighorn Sheep |
We had seen Herons everyday. I
imagined it was my Aunt Lorraine saying, "what would life be like be if we
didn't have the courage to try anything" ?
 |
| Floating to Tuck Up Canyon |
Approaching Tuck-Up Canyon, we could see a tent and smoke. I thought, "oh schist, hopefully
there's room for us too". We knew it wasn't hikers because whoever was there would need
a firepan to have a fire. A hiker wouldn't carry a firepan. Nate hopped off the
raft and ran to the established camp. He spoke with a kind crew of sixteen. Not
all were present, some were hiking. They keyed us in to a huge, sweet beach
just beyond where they were camped.
 |
| View downstream from Below Tuck up Camp |
We hit the lower beach with Hox and made
the place our home. We were like a well-oiled machine at assembling camp each
day. Everyone contributed their strength. Jason and I had been a team in the
kitchen for all but two meals. Jason was out like a light this afternoon. He
was tired from playing cards all night.
 |
| Our not-so-private yet scenic groover site at Below Tuck Up Camp |
Evan and I walked over and met the
neighbors. They were playing croquet. The six we met were
experiencing their first trip through Grand Canyon.
Back at camp, I made
Indian-Spiced Lentil Soup. Evan served Jason his dinner in their tent. Together
they sipped soup in their beds. We sat around the firepan soaking up heat under
a sliver of stars. We were all in our tents by 10 pm.
11/29/2015 (Day 16) Below Tuck Up Layover Day (Mile 165.3)
I had a strange dream
about cats last night. I was convinced to move to a house where multiple cats
lived. I brought my hermit-like cat Rondeau to live with me. I suddenly realized cats were
allowed outside and panicked when I realized Rondeau may have escaped. I went
looking for him and was relieved when I thought I found him laying in a bed.
However, it was an impostor tuxedo cat. I was devastated.
I got up to drink Spicy Hot
Chocolate and start clicking around the kitchen to make two Pumpkin Cakes with
Chocolate Chips and Cinnamon Icing. Everything baked in the Dutch ovens tasted
scrumptious. We waved goodbye to our neighbors as they drifted by early. I
heard someone at their camp banging pans to wake them up at dawn. Since we
arrived at camp yesterday, ravens have swirled about. One cawed to me this
morning and I thought of Grandma's cackle. Four boys competed at cards in The
House and three milled around the campsite or hiked. I kept the home-fires
burning until the master of fire, Dave, returned from a hike up Tuck Up Canyon.
 |
| Jason prepping breakfast and I'm prepping cakes |
 |
| The boys move swiftly toward the kitchen when we call out, "Food's ready!" |
It was noon and camp had not reached 50 degrees. From my tent,
I watched how far away from camp or how close the sun was hitting the river. We
were all anticipating when mother nature would shine her heat source on us. The
shadow from the canyon wall moved closer and closer to me. I asked our
neighbors yesterday how much sun this camp got. As we stood there glowing in
the sun, they said, "this is it". We all knew the warmth was for a
real limited time.
 |
| Jason fly-fishing |
 |
| What could feel better after rowing than downward dog? |
The sun came out and we
placed ourselves in it's rays like the solar panels we used to power our
cameras. I melted into stretches and recited my daily intentions on my Paco Pad.
Evan and Jason hiked up Tuck Up Canyon to get clear water to shower with. A
butterfly floated by as I made my way to the river to use a bit of their clear,
warm water sprinkling from a solar shower bag. It was refreshing. We ate
appetizers and a big late lunch as the sun disappeared behind the canyon wall.
Nate and I hiked up Tuck Up Canyon to gather water to filter and see the falls. The
walk was surreal. Piles of humongous boulders were strewn on the floor. It felt
creepy to walk between such huge rocks that fell from above. An intact, deceased
dragonfly lay on a rock shelf. "Follow dragonfly to the place inside your
body where magic is still alive, and drink deeply of it's power. This strength
belongs to you. It is the power of becoming the illusion. The ability is
ever-changing and contains within it the knowledge that you are creating it
all" was the message. An opening on the side of the canyon was moist and slippery with a
trickle of water spreading down it. We stopped to admire it.
 |
| The mouth of Tuck Up Canyon |
 |
| The creek in Tuck Up Canyon |
 |
| The view through Tuck Up Canyon, looking toward the Colorado River |
There I was, back in my
sleeping bag in my tent with the door open to the canyon. I read about Dragonfly
(quote above) and Raven in Medicine Cards by Jamie Sams and David Carson and was looking
forward to a magical Lava Day tomorrow. The contacts I was wearing that were
multi-day use were stupendous. It was a blessing being able to see so clearly
day and night without touching my eyes with sand. I flushed them out a few
times each day with drops, especially when I got up in the night. I used my
"walking sleeping bag", a toasty, long red-wine-colored coat made of recycled bottles, as padding inside
my pillow case and as a bathrobe of sorts for visits to the river in the night.
The warmth of the nest held me captive as I wrote this blog post. The firepan was the only other place to be in
these low temperatures but the wind was blowing ashes and smoke around our
circle of friends.
I reflected about the menu
I'd worked on for months as well as the epic shopping mission in Flagstaff. The menu and shopping list were spot-on. We had
indeed been eating like kings and a queen. Jason made past tense what Evan
predicted at the put-in. "We ate like kings and a queen". From my
nest I could see the kitchen for a few more moments and at the same time dark
over took camp, my pencil ran out of lead. I felt like a hawk watching the
kitchen. I wanted to cook and clean with minimal impact on the beaches so those
who visit behind us experience the same tranquility. And for more than two weeks, I was
searching for perfect sanitation, for a kitchen as sterile as could be. I
realized I paid more attention to these details, such as scouring the four
metal dish buckets we used multiple times a day, than anyone else. I was
determined to wipe down work surfaces before use morning and night and about
picking up every single item from the kitchen at night. But I decided I was
done giving orders. We had remained healthy for more than two weeks. There were a
couple folks complaining of allergies/colds/sniffles. No one talked too much about
life outside of here and I appreciated that. Everyone was always eager to talk
about each days' plan including rapids to navigate. And of course each evening we
sat around the firepan laughing about our experience in the rapids.
 |
| Gathered around the firepan at Below Tuck Up Camp |
 |
| The House with tents sprinkled in the background toward Tuck Up Canyon |
I wasn't sure what was in
store for dinner tonight. I didn't feel like cooking in the cold air. We had many
options including Black Bean and Sweet Potato Enchiladas. I wondered if the
Richards would take on dinner. I didn't care either way if we ate or not as I snugly
hid in my tent. I wasn't sure what would pry me out of it, perhaps steaming
delicious food. We all opted out of dinner. No one wanted to cook or clean
dishes.
11/30/2015 (Day 17) Below Tuck Up Canyon (Mile 165.3) to Lower Whitmore Wash (Mile 188.4)
We got on the river early
today. We had fourteen miles to go until Lava Falls Rapid, our second Class 9 rapid of the trip. It was frigid on the river
before we got in the sun. Inside my black box was 41 degrees. With the wind
chill, it was definitely in the 30s. Everyone was cold so we stopped in a sun
patch on a beach about a mile above Lava Falls. We basked in the sun for about twenty minutes. Once the river was lit up with sun, we shoved off. We saw the Vulcan's Anvil and soon began to hear Lava's
roar.
 |
| Vulcan's Anvil and I |
 |
| Vulcan's Anvil (Mile 178.3) lets river runners know Lava Falls is a little over a mile away |
We scouted the monstrous rapid in the sun. Most of the crew took a peek at the drop and walked back to the rafts. Nate
and I were in no hurry as it was early and the sun was only getting warmer,
warming more of the river. We were also looking for signs of the water level
dropping. It really wasn't. On the rocks I gauged my opinion, the water was
surging. We decided to walk to the bottom of the rapid to get a closer look and
were glad we did. The violent brown water looked friendlier at river level. The
crashing wave next to Cheese Grater Rock did not look like such a pulsating
superpower from here.
 |
| Looking down at Lava Falls, the sun light almost covers where we intend to run through the rapid. We ascend a bit river left of where the line is between the shade and sunlight. |
We hiked back to the rafts
where the crew was waiting to roll. We got our go- pro in place and rolling and
off from shore we shoved. As a rifle rower, it seemed we were awfully far right
headed for the hole on the far right shore (see picture above). I didn't say a word, I trusted my
captain. Next thing I knew we were headed for the V wave as planned. It
splashed over and around me. Nate kept the raft straight and we headed into the pulsating
wave by Cheese Grater rock (see picture above, Cheese Grater Rock is the pointy rock with water coming up on to it at the bottom of the rapid on river right). We slide through the wave with a dousing. Soaked, I
stood up like I scored touchdown. The boys following behind saw me and knew one
of us had already made it through. Others had spicier though clean lines. We laughed,
hooted, and hollered back and forth across the river and through Lower Lava
Rapid, feeling more connected to the river and each other than before. At Tequilla Beach we were ready to celebrate our victory over Lava Falls Rapid.
 |
| Post Lava glow |
 |
| Our welcoming neighbor |
We decided to keep going
and bank more miles. We were at Mile 179.7 headed for Whitmore Wash, mile 188.4. We all had that post-Lava glow when
we reached the beach by Lower
Whitmore Wash. We could see
our neighbors from Tuck Up Canyon were here. In fact, as we embarked from our
crafts, they were dressed from head to toe in clowns suits complete with face
paint. They gathered firewood nearby and invited us over to their campsite
later. We dined on Spicy Jasmine Rice with Carrots and Cashews topped with
Salmon. The Wild Sockeye Salmon, a Patagonia Provision, came from Nate's folks as a gift. Some found it the best meal thus far. Was it
because it was the first meal post-Lava or was it really that good? I was not
sure. It did taste extra special even without Salmon.
After we cleaned up from
dinner, and sat by the firepan, we trekked to the clown camp. We found six
rafters lounging around a larger firepan. Only dude one was still dressed like
a clown in a sleek fuscia-infused suit. Their common thread was the Gauley River in West
Virginia. We
excitedly chatted with them around the fire for an hour or so. Not only did they lack baking soda, but they had NO SPICE KIT at all! The outfitter who organized their trip forgot to send them with a spice kit. It felt
invigorating to find fellow friendly, enthusiastic river runners. We headed
back to camp to soak up a little more starlight and eventually moved toward our
respective tent sites.
12/1/2015 (Day 18) Lower Whitmore Wash Camp (165.3) to Mile 202 Camp (Mile 202)
Our boats were frozen this
morning. Jason and I cooked blueberry pancakes and Spicy Sweet Potato Hash. I
rowed a bunch of squirrely riffles today. We were the sweep raft or last raft in
the line up for the first time today. It was quiet not having to set the pace.
 |
| I'm working to remain in the current and out of the eddies |
We made good time to Mile 202 Camp. There was a couple more hours of direct sun when
we got there. I bathed in the river around rocks along side a riffle. So did
Nate.
 |
| As Jason says, "You don't need a floor" |
 |
| Middle Earth's rafts Aragorn and Windwalker provide forgiveness to folks new at rowing. Their tube size, taper and rocker help keep them upright in rapids. |
I made Sweet and Spicy Chili with Double Cornbread for dinner.
 |
| Dutch oven with Double Cornbread inside |
 |
| Charcoal chimney |
 |
| Nick starts a fire |
 |
| Dutch oven with Double Cornbread baking inside |
 |
| Piping-hot Double Cornbread |
Nate and I
seemed to gravitate to some of the same tent sites this trip, like this one pictured below,
tucked next to the wash. Outside the tent it was a cold night. Inside it was
nothing but fluffy warmth among new Thermarest sleepware.
12/2/2015 (Day 19) Mile 202 Camp (Mile 202) to Mile 220 Camp (Mile 220)
Nate was chilly this
morning after he left the tent. To keep warm, he donned his drysuit. We ate a
quick breakfast of oatmeal, dried fruit and nuts. There were a few rapids today
including some large wave trains and hydraulics. I rowed several riffles. I
actually floated over a headless duck. Yuck. We relished a couple hours of direct
sunlight at camp. I made Pasta Salad with Balsamic Vinaigrette, Garlic and
Sun-dried Tomatoes for an appetizer. Before dark, Nate and I scoped out the
middle camp including scouring for firewood. There was mostly kindling to be
found. Once the shadow overtook camp, we made Sweet Potato and Black Bean
Enchiladas in the Dutch ovens. Again, they were simply delightful. We hunkered
down around the firepan as Nick C passionately oozed with mountaineering
stories.
 |
| Our kitchen at Mile 220 Camp |
 |
| Nick and Dave about to strain dish water into the river |
 |
| Our scenic and private groover site at Mile 220 Camp |
12/3/2015 (Day 20) Mile 220 Camp Layover Day (Mile 220)
In the morning when the
sun hit the beach really early, the crew knew why we loved this camp. We had
sunlight from ~ 9:30 to 3. The
morning was low-key especially during the virtuous Matt Eckel flute solos coming from our
small speaker. I whipped up German Chocolate Brownie batter and eventually the
boys sparked up coals in the charcoal chimney. We surrounded the cast iron pots
and lids with charcoal and asked Chris to start the clock. Jason, Nate and I
walked the shore below camp gathering kindling. The boys set up horseshoes and
began playing in the warming, soft sand as I stretched on my comfy, plush Paco
Pad next to my tent. Any of my clothes in need of drying hung on a clothesline
nearby.
 |
| Nate working the ash can |
 |
| Dave fly-fishing |
As the sun left the beach,
Dabs and I meandered through the vegetation behind camp and up the canyon. I
admired the tall awkward Ocotillo. In the wash Dabs was determined to find
heart-shaped rocks. He had already found almost 20 rocks he'd placed on a
nearby boulder. As we wandered the wash looking for signs of love, the Richards
were on a firewood mission back at camp. They switched out their cat oars for Hox's longer oars. They used the increased leverage to row upstream and comb
the shore for firewood. They were highly successful. We gathered around the
firepan and hefty stack of fire wood for brownies. The boys squirted whipped
cream all over theirs. I savored the coconut, pecan and brown sugar blend on
top held together with melted Earth Balance. "How do we do it?", as Wayne Failing
would say.
 |
| Conglomerate path in Mile 220 Canyon |
 |
| Merry NRS-mas |
Later we ate any food we
could. After all, we only had one day left. Nick C disappeared from the crew
wrapped around the firepan. He reappeared minutes later dressed as
"Santa" with NRS straps hanging from his face for a beard. He carried
a sack/dry bag filled with "goodies" for every boy and me. He gave
Dabs sleeping pills to sleep rather than cough at night. He gave Dave a rope to
use as a clothesline. He gave Christian hand sanitizer because was always
handling the groover. He gave Evan a pocket knife for his adventures. He gave Jason grape jelly
for making peanut butter and jelly sandwiches on the river. He gave Nate earplugs so he wouldn't have to
listen to his stories. I received a variety bag of tea to help me relax on NRS-mas. We were all
thoroughly surprised.
 |
| Thank you Long Lake Central School for allowing me this opportunity |
Nate and I prepped two
Dutch ovens with Apple Crisps for tomorrow morning, our last breakfast together
on the river. We enjoyed the heat from the large bundle of wood the Richards
collected, putting it on the fire piece by piece until the wee hours of the
morning.
12/4/2015 (Day 21) Mile 220 Camp (Mile 220) to Separation Canyon (Mile 239.8) and Pearce Ferry (Mile 280)
 |
| Jason watches in disbelief as Nate creates a lunch wrap with the remaining ingredients on hand |
The Apple Crisps were
divine for breakfast. Most boys ate an entire quarter of a Dutch oven-worth
slathered with whipped cream. We packed up our camp for the last time at a
comfortable pace, feeling giddy and excited for the long day ahead. We were
about to travel 60 miles. We launched about 10:30am. Instantly Nate remarked that the water felt like
cement against his oars. When we checked the graph post-trip, we learned the
flow had indeed increased significantly. We passed the Diamond Creek take out. A blanket of clouds hung over us and kept us warm all morning and into the
afternoon. It was rather dark and dreary in this stretch. Add to it the
struggle to row "cement" and Nate found it hellish.
 |
| Travertine Falls (Mile 230.7) |
As we approached
Killer Fang Rapid (Mile 232), images of flipping flashed through our heads. An
encounter with a rock on river left vividly reminded us what happened when we
side-wiped the fang last trip. Nate scrambled to miss the faux fang. It made my
hair stand up even more than it was already from not washing it for two weeks.
At Killer Fang Rapid, the increased flow of water mostly covered the fang.
Anticipation was the hardest part of this rapid. After we passed the fang, we
quietly rejoiced and high-fived our first trip remaining upright. We made it to
Separation Canyon in great time. Everyone changed and prepped to float through the
night. We set up a small kitchen for a quick, simple meal of canned soup and
grilled cheese. I ate toast with Earth Balance and nutritional yeast.
 |
| A quick stop to refuel at Separation Canyon |
 |
| Rigs strapped together for the night float |
We were all revved up and
antsy to create our floating lounge for the night float. We decided on a
diamond formation which we modified so if needed five oars could power and
steer the large vessel. With the set up we created, Evan was able to rudder
with an oar off the back of the cataraft. Also, the two cataraft oars were
moved back so both oars could work together to power the flotilla. We embarked
on the float about 5:30 pm. The feeling of togetherness cannot be described, only experienced. I
loved culminating the trip this way. I felt like a child wired by the thrill of
sailing through the canyon in the dark.
I slept with one eye open all night
long. It was a moonless night until about 4 am. The lack of light from the moon added to the adventure for those
steering the big rig. I watched shooting stars in between the shadows of the
canyon wall. When the clouds dispersed, removing the sky's blanket, it did get
nippy. We also became covered in dew. I really put my new sleeping bag to the
test. It worked like a charm. The boys awake took turns navigating and they
took it seriously.
It was well before dawn
when we decided to pull over to ensure we reached the take out in the light. Nobody
wanted to ride through vicious Pearce Ferry Rapid surprised in sleeping bags.
We moved the rig closer to the left shore and Nate abruptly jumped off. He
landed on a nearly vertical 20 + foot high crumbling bank of sand. It was
sketchy finding a tree to anchor the rafts off to until light came. We slept on the
floating living room, half in the eddy, half out. Dabs and Dave bobbed for the
hours we slept. At about 6:30 am we disengaged from shore and each other and rowed the last few miles
to the Pearce Ferry take-out. We noticed a camp about a mile up from the
take-out on river left that would have been a better spot to stop and sleep. A
heron sat by the camp.
 |
| Getting close to Pearce Ferry Take-Out |
As we floated the
remaining miles, a beaver swam in front of us and then disappeared beneath the
water. It made me think of the builder of the animal kingdom and I compared
myself and our present state to it. In building this dream, teamwork was
necessary. With our small crew, each member did indeed honor the talents and
abilities of each other. Each person knew how to complete the part of the
puzzle that belonged to them. We worked well together, community was achieved
and unity ensued. Nate and I spent the trip protecting the creation we put our
love and energy into. The surroundings, the gear, the food, the itinerary, the safety, the
relationships with co-workers and friends were all part of what we held sacred. As a crew we were are willing and determined to accomplish this challenge.
12/5/2015 (Day 22) Pearce Ferry Take-Out (Mile 280.5)
We got to the take-out at
about 7:30
am. It took us until about
11:30 am to dismantle the rafts and pack the trailer. We
were tired, hungry and ready for creature comforts. The toilets at the take-out
were clogged and nasty. Dabs rode the bumpy rode out in the van with us. Funny,
one of the first signs we saw was for Delmar Dr. A spider climbed the windshield and hung from a
web in front of me. A hawk flew above the van, only for me to see. Hawk
medicine is filled with responsibility because hawk people see the overall
view. No detail slipped by us unnoticed for 22 days. We led six new
sets of eyes through Grand
Canyon and there was endless joy in
sharing this important place.
 |
| A tougher crew with more character than 22 days ago |
I made Sweet and Spicy Chili with Double Cornbread for dinner. 
As the sun left the beach,
Dabs and I meandered through the vegetation behind camp and up the canyon. I
admired the tall awkward Ocotillo. In the wash Dabs was determined to find
heart-shaped rocks. He had already found almost 20 rocks he'd placed on a
nearby boulder. As we wandered the wash looking for signs of love, the Richards
were on a firewood mission back at camp. They switched out their cat oars for Hox's longer oars. They used the increased leverage to row upstream and comb
the shore for firewood. They were highly successful. We gathered around the
firepan and hefty stack of fire wood for brownies. The boys squirted whipped
cream all over theirs. I savored the coconut, pecan and brown sugar blend on
top held together with melted Earth Balance. "How do we do it?", as Wayne Failing
would say. 
Later we ate any food we
could. After all, we only had one day left. Nick C disappeared from the crew
wrapped around the firepan. He reappeared minutes later dressed as
"Santa" with NRS straps hanging from his face for a beard. He carried
a sack/dry bag filled with "goodies" for every boy and me. He gave
Dabs sleeping pills to sleep rather than cough at night. He gave Dave a rope to
use as a clothesline. He gave Christian hand sanitizer because was always
handling the groover. He gave Evan a pocket knife for his adventures. He gave Jason grape jelly
for making peanut butter and jelly sandwiches on the river. He gave Nate earplugs so he wouldn't have to
listen to his stories. I received a variety bag of tea to help me relax on NRS-mas. We were all
thoroughly surprised. 
Nate and I prepped two
Dutch ovens with Apple Crisps for tomorrow morning, our last breakfast together
on the river. We enjoyed the heat from the large bundle of wood the Richards
collected, putting it on the fire piece by piece until the wee hours of the
morning. 
The Apple Crisps were
divine for breakfast. Most boys ate an entire quarter of a Dutch oven-worth
slathered with whipped cream. We packed up our camp for the last time at a
comfortable pace, feeling giddy and excited for the long day ahead. We were
about to travel 60 miles. We launched about 10:30am. Instantly Nate remarked that the water felt like
cement against his oars. When we checked the graph post-trip, we learned the
flow had indeed increased significantly. We passed the Diamond Creek take out. A blanket of clouds hung over us and kept us warm all morning and into the
afternoon. It was rather dark and dreary in this stretch. Add to it the
struggle to row "cement" and Nate found it hellish. 
